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The tricks are called in the chemical Cosmetics Skin Cleansing .

These are products that have a primarily aesthetic function, created to enhance the exterior beauty of the body and mask imperfections.

These color cosmetics should provide a small dose, not to allergic reactions and remain unchanged. The colors used are insoluble pigments and lakes, often used in conjunction with other substances such as opacifiers, pearlescent or glitter.

POWDER

The powders are designed to give a natural color to the face and neck.

They consist of a support (excipient), colors and additives.

The other ingredient is found in greater quantities than the other components and serves as an adhesion, to maintain contact with skin, clothing and towels.

These functions are ensured by the presence of substances such as kaolin, silicon dioxide, starch, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, calcium oxide, zinc carbonate and calcium, zinc and aluminum stearate, talc, magnesium carbonate.

dyes are insoluble pigments and lacquers.

additives are perfumes, pearlescent substances, antimicrobial agents, surfactants, fixatives, moisturizers, UV filters.

The powders are sold in powder or compact.

Those are made of powdered magnesium silicate, kaolin, zinc stearate, magnesium silicate, talc, iron oxide, fragrance. Those compact contain mainly titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, magnesium silicate, mica, iron oxide, preservatives, antioxidants, talc, isopropyl isostearic, paraffin oil, perfume.

BELLETTI

The cosmetics are intended to color the skin more sharply than the powders.

may be dry (powder or compact), suspended in hydrophilic (pigments in milk or cream O / A, as the foundation), hydrophobic in suspension (suspended pigments A / O), hydrocolloid suspension.

I FARD generally contain pigments, preservatives, antioxidants, talc, alcohol, lanolin, dimethyl polysilicon, paraffin oil, perfume.

The O / W emulsions as a makeup base containing glyceryl monostearate, cetyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, paraffin oil, cetyl stearyl octanoate, octyl palmitate, talc, pigments, propylene glycol, polietossisorbitano, xanthan gum, aluminum or magnesium carbonate, glycerin , preservatives, fragrance.

ROSSETTI AND COSMETICS LIPS OF

cosmetics lip may have an aesthetic and a protective function.

The lipsticks are anhydrous pasta shaped stick, consisting of an excipient, coloring and additives. The other ingredient is given by body wax, fats and oil bodies. Among the most widely used body wax is beeswax, which has plastic qualities, an ideal melting point and a high number of hydroxyl, which makes it more polar than others. They can also be used carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin wax and the ozocherite.

Among the fat bodies are cocoa butter, cetyl alcohol, lanolin and its derivatives, oils idrogrenati.

Among the bodies we find the wax, castor oil, oleic alcohol and mineral oils.

In lipsticks are also fixers, pigments, paints and dyes soluble. Among the fixers are bromoderivati, iodo-derivatives, chloro-derivatives. They have bright colors and durable.

lacquers and pigments are the most used. These are salts of carboxylic or sulfonic acids linked to alkaline earth metal insoluble excipient.

soluble dyes are designed to standardize the color, but must be included at concentrations higher than 0.1% because those teeth and are dispersed in the area of \u200b\u200bapplication.

Among the additives are dispersants of fixers, tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol esters, esters of sugar alcohols. Among the antioxidants vitamin E acetate is recalled, the butylated hydroxytoluene (BTH), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), tocopherols.

Other substances that may be present UV filters are substances, soothing scent.

I lipsticks fluids differ in the use of fixers only partially soluble in a movie. So do not contain insoluble pigments and lacquers.

The emollient lip are similar to classic lipsticks or fluid, but do not contain dyes (or contain a very small part). There are instead of cocoa butter, avocado oil, egg yolk oil, lecithin, vitamin F.

ENAMELS

glazes, cosmetics or nails are used to beautify, protect and igienicizzare nails. These coatings, which give strength and shine, smoothing, slightly abrasive, which remove small scratches dall'unghia, whitebait, pasta or a pencil full of white pigments and wax bodies; epichiniolitici, alkaline agents which smooth the keratin of skin, hardening, strengthening the nail, paint strippers, which are used to remove the paint without damaging the nail and tissue attached; spotting for stains of tobacco, Ink and plants.

TALC

The powders are mixtures of metal organic and inorganic powders.

tetrasilicato Talc is made of magnesium hydroxide, kaolin is a tetrasilicato aluminum hydroxide, zinc oxide is a white absorbent and astringent; Tiñana oxide is a white powder on the metallic titanium, high hiding power, and the basic magnesium carbonate is a white powder with high absorption, the diatomaceous earth is made up of alkaline earth metal silicate is a powder and very light with high absorption, the metal components are organic stearate magnesium, zinc and aluminum, with absorbing function of sebum.

hygienic powders are of plant or animal origin, with power and greasy slide. Require the addition of preservatives in the preparation, to remedy the lack of fermentability. These include the

lycopods, a yellow powder that comes from Licopodium clavatum, greasy, light and sticky, the Iris, a beige powder with absorbent; starch, especially that of rice, absorbing body moisture and fermentable (with the defect to form colloidal solutions but they can clog pores), the albumin content of milk, a white powder with moisture absorbing properties without giving colloidal solutions, synthetic polymers and semi-synthesis, including vinyl polymers, acetylated starch.

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action whitening products

I action whitening products are also called depigmenting . These applications are aimed at limiting skin blemishes such as freckles, dark spots, freckles, red spots, sometimes due to aging.

These products must be formulated very carefully for the duration of exposure on the skin, should not cause irritation, should be well tolerated, should have a pH between 4 and 6 and should not be used on children.

The depigmenting are of two types: those that suppress the activity of the melanin and those that interfere with the biosynthesis of melanin through enzymatic inhibition or competition with the substrate.

These products involved in cell turnover of the stratum corneum, giving a mild exfoliating action, increasing the speed of renewal of skin cells, accelerating the removal of the treated areas of hyperpigmented keratinocytes, which are quickly replaced by cells that contain less amount of melanin and therefore have lighter color.

Among the suppressors of melanin are the Alpha-hydroxy acids the Chamomile, l ' Althea, the' glycolic acid and lactic .

Among the inhibitors of melanin biosynthesis are the ' kojic acid, l' azelaic acid, licorice the , the ' bitter orange, the' angelic , the ' barley, the propolis, the resveratrol, the ' arbutin.

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Toothpaste and Oral Care Products

Toothpaste Medicated

medicated toothpastes are the major dentifrices sold in pharmacy, but also in many other stores. contain salts of hydrofluoric acid, such as sodium fluoride or aluminum fluoride, which have bacteriostatic and react with the enamel of the teeth making them resistant against caries. A chemical level transform hydroxyapatite enamel FloruroApatite , inactive.

The anticaries contain salts such as sodium phosphate, sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate. The pH of the mouth is 7, and they must ensure that toothpaste is kept in the mouth.

The contain anti-inflammatory azulene (chamomile), calendula and lichen, and were created to protect the oral cavity from inflammation.

The contain astringent tannins but also extracts of birch and ratania.

The antihaemorrhagic contain vitamin C and K.

The plaque or gingivitis toothpaste containing chlorhexidine against.

whitening toothpastes

These toothpastes contain carbamide peroxide (urea and hydrogen peroxide), which removes stains from the enamel surface. They also contain silica, with abrasive action. They should not be used often because in the long run can cause irritation, lower hardness of enamel and hypersensitivity to heat and cold.

Mouthwash

These are products that are used only for rinsing and dressing of the mouth, and gums retrobocca. contain chlorhexidine, which is an anti-plaque and antigengivite, Vitamin P4, anti-edema, sodium fluoride, and flavorings such as peppermint, menthol, eugenol, etc..

Kukident Tablets

These tablets are dissolved in water to maintain proper hygiene in the denture. contain sodium lauryl sulfate with detergent action, and mint extracts.

Topical Gel

were created to protect against mouth ulcers and stomatitis, but also as desensitizing agents. Containing sodium fluoride, sodium benzoate, hyaluronic acid, xylitol and aloe extract, which relieves pain and promotes normal healing.

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Composition of vitamins used in toothpaste

I toothpaste are classified as Cosmetics Oral Care . This type of cosmetics should ensure proper oral hygiene, remove the debris of food, leave a pleasant taste in the mouth and prevent the formation of dental plaque.

should then be abrasive, cleaning, maintaining the right pH and osmotic pressure.

The tooth surface must remain clean, shiny and composition should not affect the enamel.

toothpastes contain:

abrasive (30-60%), cleaning and polishing without damaging the enamel. These inorganic powders such as bi-tri-calcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, magnesium oxide;

substances hydrophilic polymers as binders or alginates, colloidal substances in water to produce water and take related components;

humectants (20-30%), such as glycerin, propylene glycol and sorbitol, which retain the right degree of moisture from the dough;

sweetening substance (0.1%), such as sodium saccharin, softens but does not ferment;

foaming substances (up to 2% because irritant), anionic such as sodium dodecyl, the amides of fatty acids, tri-sulphated ricinoleina present in anti-tartar toothpastes, amines aromatic quaternary used as bactericides;

preservatives (0.1-0.2%), used to protect the pulp from bacterial growth. Since this is very watery in fact, is very fertile ground for the growth of bacteria. The preservatives are parabens, suibico acid, triclosan, the quaternary ammonium base;

lubricants (0.5-1%) and slide the dough into the tube, such as paraffin oil ;

flavoring, herbal essences such as peppermint, anise, thyme, sage,

dyes, such as the soluble and insoluble pigments.

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The vitamins used in cosmetics are:

VITAMIN A RETINOL or , used for its protective effect and delay the aging

or ACID VITAMIN C ASCORBIC , used to stimulate the immune system and as an antioxidant against free radicals;

VITAMIN B2 RIBOFLAVIN or , used for skin and hair grease, accelerates skin pigmentation in association with Tyrosine;

Vitamin B5 or ACID PANTOTHENIC , used as emollient and moisturizer;

or BIOTIN VITAMIN H , used for hair loss;

VITAMIN PP or Nicotinamide , used as a tonic and stimulating.

VITAMIN E ALPHA-TOCOPHEROL or , the most important antioxidant against free radicals, improves the condition of the skin, neutralizes peroxide radicals allowing the integrity of biological membranes, protecting membrane lipids, stabilizes the effect of vitamin A, protects aging (UVA, UVB) implementing an anti-aging by stimulating the regeneration of epithelial cells of the skin.

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Cosmetics Sunscreens

I sunscreens or cosmetics Solari were created to provide protection against radiation damage. These shall not exceed the MED , which is the lowest dose that provides Erythema ( Minimal Dose Erithematic ). If the MED is not exceeded, the body can slowly provide for the synthesis of pigments that ensure the proper protection.

E 'can protect themselves in a natural way , trying to pay attention to certain factors. Much influence in fact have the latitude, altitude, the reflectivity of surfaces and terrain. For Tropics sun exposure is more dangerous because the radiation reaching the earth faster. In the mountains instead, where the atmosphere is clearer, the radiant energy increases and the radiation is stronger. However, the snow reflects much solar radiation, about 70%. The sand reflects about 20% of the total radius, while the water only 10% (that's why you tan more quickly on the sand or water!).

I sunscreens instead are specific substances that are spread on the skin and a chemical that consist of molecules that can absorb the radiation and then release it as heat, avoid that the skin remains in contact with the rays. The solar

must therefore be very stable, should not be irritating, to be effective for all types of UV radiation and have high absorbance value. L ' Absorbance screening identifies the power of the filter.

The protection factor SPF is identified as the ratio between the minimum dose erythematous skin protected by sunscreen and minimal erythema dose of unprotected skin. Most important is the time of sun exposure, which are closely related. The relationship between the two exposure times provides a mathematical calculation of the protection factor.

Statistics on Sun Protection Factor also depends heavily on technical factors, such as lamps used, the thickness of cream spread, the type of emulsion, the quality of his fat phase, and so on. There are several conventional methods and scales, but the most used is that COLIPA ( European Association of Cosmetic Industries ).

The various methods differ in subject, amount of product per unit area, measurements of the MED-ray light source, UV exposure increases, the calculation of the protection factor, the reference standard.

Sunscreens can be divided into filters Chemical (UVA and UVB) and Physical filters.

I chemical filters are: benzophenone derivatives and derivatives Benzoilmetano (UVA), amino acid derivatives, derivatives of salicylic acid, derivatives of cinnamic acid, derivatives of camphor (UVB).

I Physical filters are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talc and kaolin.

may also be used adjuvant substances, which have weak filtering action, but that combined with solar filters can improve the effect. These are extracts Buckthorn, Cascara, Chamomile, Hypericum, Helichrysum, Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Sesame Oil, Rice, Bergamot.

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ultraviolet radiation

There are various types of radiation, but the best known is the Ultraviolette .

I IR rays are very penetrating rays, cause heating cell and vasodilation, but they are rarely harmful. At most heat stroke causing .

I Visible rays are very penetrating, but well tolerated by the body. It also partly reflected by the stratum corneum.

I UVA cause reddening of the skin, but do not tan. The energy released by this type of radiation is not sufficient to start the production of melanin by the body, so the person can not tan. UVA, however, are dangerous because they have enough energy to cause changes in the structure of the skin . This type of radiation is able to penetrate the inner layers of the skin and exert deleterious effects. They can then make changes in the collagen and of ' elastin, which are the two main protein of the dermis, giving skin dry and wrinkled. But they can also give rise to some cancers. It 'so good protect yourself with sun protection containing UVA and UVB rays as well.

I UVB instead possess sufficient energy to begin the process of melanogenesis and kick off the production of melanin, responsible for the change in skin color, and then of 'tan . The radiation causes un'ispessimento wall dermis, long (about 5-6 days). This type of rays are responsible for ' sunburn, skin alteration similar to sunburn and characterized by redness, swelling, diffuse, and fever blisters. The rash appears after 10 hours of exposure and reaches its peak after 100 hours.

I UVC rays have more energy for other forms of radiation. May result in irreparable damage to the skin very quickly. These rays are shielded from ozone in the atmosphere.

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phototypes

With phototypes description refers to specific individual characteristics that make it possible to evaluate the sensitivity to solar radiation.

There are six different skin types, cataloging created based on similar characteristics of the skin, hair color and eye color.

I - Celtic Phototype

II - Germanic Phototype

III - Mixed Phototype

IV - Mediterranean Phototype

V - Phototype South American

VI - Breed Black

The Phototype Celtic is characterized by skin extremely sensitive to radiation. These are people who do not tan ever. Subjects with phototype I and II usually try to absorb all the radiation coming on their skin. These conditions are typical of people living in Northern Europe . The sun's rays in these places is reduced and the body has to catch every sunbeam that is, minimizing the defenses of the skin.

Subjects with blond or red hair grow pheomelanins , which are unstable melanin, created by the defense as a result of sun exposure.

phototype VI instead produce a lot of eumelanin contained in melanosomes . These are very stable and result in permanent discoloration. This type of non-tans ever.

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The skin and its natural defenses: an introduction to solar

I solar cosmetics were created to protect the skin from harmful UV rays .

The skin has natural defenses, such as the stratum corneum and urocanic acid.

The stratum corneum (contained in the epidermis) reflects about 5% of UV radiation . If the exposure is long, the stratum corneum thickens and goes in hyperkeratosis, leading to more reflective capacity.

L ' urocanic acid is produced by epidermal cells after exposure to the sun. It is a substance that can absorb UV radiation by changing molecular conformation, and then release them in the form of heat and return to its initial state (transition from stable trans form unstable CIS, TRANS again ).

The skin also has natural pigments such as melanin , produced by melanocytes in the basal layer of the dermis.

Melanin is composed of 50% and 50% eumelanin precursors of synthesis and pheomelanins tricocromi.